Report: Birding in Mishmi Hills, Arunachal Pradesh, March 2018

Ward's Trogon, an inhabitant of the moss-laden, temperate broad-leaved forests of the Eastern Himalaya

This is brief note from a bird-watching oriented trip to Roing Grasslands and Mishmi Hills (Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary), in the Eastern Himalayas of Arunachal Pradesh 

Please follow link for a complete picture gallery from this trip

Dates: 17th to 23rd March 2018

Locations: Roing Grasslands - Sally Lake - Mishmi Foothills - Tiwari Gaon - Coffee House - Myodia Pass. This is among the classic birding itineraries, where a broad elevational gradient, its associated diversity of habitat and birdlife, is traversed on a relatively easy road (elevational range from around 200m near Roing to 2655m at Myodia pass, encompassing Terai Grasslands, Sub-tropical Evergreen and Temperate Broad-leaved Forests)

Accommodation: DS Hotel (Roing); Coffee House (Myodia Pass)

Wild Orchid and other epiphytes thrive in this high rainfall, high humidity region

View of the Mishmi Range from where the foothills meet the floodplains of the mighty Bramhaputra

Marsh Babbler, among a handful of specialist inhabitants of the Terai Grasslands threatened by the widespread conversion of its habitat for agriculture

Highlights: Over 170 species of birds* in five days of intense birding, including excellent species such as Ward's Trogon, Red-faced Liochicla, Bengal Florican, Mishmi Wren Babbler, Jerdon's and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Scarlet Finch, Gold-naped Finch, Himalayan Cutia, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Lesser Coucal, Golden Babbler, Rufous Backed Sibia, Slaty-backed and Black-backed Forktails, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Black Eagle (and numerous birds of prey), various Laughingthrushes/Bulbuls/Flycatchers/Warblers, a plethora of Fulvettas, Yuhinas, Sibias, Parrotbills, Minlas, other Babblers etc whizzing around, often in famed ‘waves’, in the forest understory as is typical of these superbly diverse Eastern Himalayan Forests. We heard, but could not see the iconic Blyth's Tragopan. Hats off to Adesh Shivkar (from Nature India) and Ravi Meloka (local bird guide), whose phenomenal ears for bird calls and behaviour of the region unravelled this incredibly rich, but impossible to find by sight alone, birdlife. Alas, the splendid birding of India’s northeast is rarely easy given the difficulty of finding birds in the undergrowth, and also the inevitable confusion of which ones to focus on when those waves whizz past you!

The diminutive Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler. The Eastern Himalayas are known for a great diversity of Babblers that inhabit niches in the complex forest understory

Black-eared Shrike Babbler, among the numerous, colourful, smaller birds that typically occur in the famed mixed bird waves of the region

Himalayan Cutia an inhabitant of the mid-elevation, broad-leaved forest

Strikingly, but not unexpectedly (given the local propensity to hunt), barring few and far between sightings of Hoolock Gibbon, Himalayan Marten and a handful of forest squirrels, mammal sightings were nil, in what appeared to be an extensive, albeit disturbed wilderness of the Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary.

A distant Hoolock Gibbon at Sally Lake - one of the few mammal sightings of the trip

The hill forests itself appeared superbly diverse, with many species in spring inflorescence - but threats in the form of the traditional practise of slash and burn agriculture and other ‘development’ oriented activities such as road widening can potentially whittle away the riches of these forests. The Roing Grasslands - typical Terai habitat - home for rarities like Jerdon’s and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill and Bengal Florican - seemed relatively pristine, but without protection, could soon disappear under expanding demand for farmland from a growing local population.

A view of the Greater Himalaya as seen from Myodia Pass, on one of those gloriously crisp, clear days

A Magnolia in bloom. The forestscape was peppered with flowering plants displaying their wares - a springtime phenomenon in these seasonal forests

Cobra Lily. The Eastern Himalayas are known to host among the greatest diversity of plants on Earth

While it rained the evening we arrived in Roing and, intermittently, the following day, we were lucky to have dry, crisp, clear days (and star filled nights) subsequently - a blessing in a region known for unpredictable weather. We were so far east, that our days started very early and given the logistics of distances, long. Food while on the road, was often simple, packed rotis-subji-rice substituted with goodies (read, largely namkeen Gujarati style!) from afar. When we had to stop to eat in the few and far between local outlets, food was usually Maggi, Dal, Chawal and some local greens (for the veggies), with an addition of pork and eggs for the non-veggies. The adventurous may want to try the local version of raw beetlenut - quite a sensation, but cant say all pleasant! In all this a special mention of Coffee House (be warned, the name somehow conveys things about the place, which is the exact opposite of what it actually is) - our accommodation up in the hills for three, err, unpleasant nights. Pretty much the only thing going for it is its lovely location close to Myodia Pass and all else goes hurtling downhill from there - the mouldy bed 'linen', broken toilet, the cold that somehow seems to sneak through the ramshackle building to get under your thermal clad skin ... ! But it is all worth it, when you exploring the among the most biodiverse regions on Earth.

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*Checklist (incomplete) of Birds sighted

Row #	Species	Count	Location	S/P	Date
1	Oriental Turtle-Dove		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
2	Barred Cuckoo-Dove		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
3	Bengal Florican	1	Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
4	Lesser Coucal	1	Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
5	Banded Bay Cuckoo		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
6	Large Hawk-Cuckoo		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
7	Himalayan Swiftlet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
8	White-breasted Waterhen		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
9	Common Sandpiper		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
10	Black-winged Kite		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
11	Crested Serpent-Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
12	Short-toed Snake-Eagle		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
13	Mountain Hawk-Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
14	Rufous-bellied Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
15	Black Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
16	Eurasian Sparrowhawk		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
17	Black Kite		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
18	Ward's Trogon		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
19	Common Kingfisher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
20	Great Barbet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
21	Golden-throated Barbet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
22	Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
23	Darjeeling Woodpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
24	Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
25	Short-billed Minivet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
26	Black-eared Shrike-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
27	Ashy Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
28	Bronzed Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
29	Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
30	Hair-crested Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
31	White-throated Fantail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
32	Eurasian Jay		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
33	Yellow-billed Blue-Magpie		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
34	Bengal Bushlark		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
35	Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
36	Yellow-browed Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
37	Sultan Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
38	Yellow-cheeked Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
39	Black-throated Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
40	White-tailed Nuthatch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
41	Striated Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
42	Red-whiskered Bulbul		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
43	Black Bulbul		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
44	Ashy Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
45	Mountain Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
46	Scaly-breasted Cupwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
47	Gray-sided Bush Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
48	Yellow-bellied Warbler		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
49	Black-faced Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
50	Mountain Tailorbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
51	Ashy-throated Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
52	Gray-cheeked Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
53	Chestnut-crowned Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
54	Gray-hooded Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
55	Striated Grassbird		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
56	Hill Prinia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
57	Yellow-bellied Prinia		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
58	Fire-tailed Myzornis		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
59	Golden-breasted Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
60	Jerdon's Babbler	1	Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
61	Streak-throated Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
62	Rufous-headed Parrotbill		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
63	Black-breasted Parrotbill		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
64	Black-throated Parrotbill		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
65	Striated Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
66	White-naped Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
67	Stripe-throated Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
68	Oriental White-eye		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
69	Chestnut-capped Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
70	Pin-striped Tit-Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
71	Golden Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
72	Rufous-capped Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
73	Rusty-throated Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
74	Bar-winged Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
75	Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
76	Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
77	Gray-throated Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
78	Yellow-throated Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
79	Marsh Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
80	Long-billed Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
81	Ludlow's Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
82	Nepal Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
83	Himalayan Cutia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
84	Striated Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
85	Spot-breasted Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
86	Rufous-necked Laughingthrush		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
87	Gray-sided Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
88	Black-faced Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
89	Beautiful Sibia		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
90	Long-tailed Sibia		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
91	Silver-eared Mesia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
92	Red-tailed Minla		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
93	Rufous-backed Sibia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
94	Red-faced Liocichla		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
95	Streak-throated Barwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
96	Rusty-fronted Barwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
97	Blue-winged Minla		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
98	Blue-throated Flycatcher		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
99	Large Niltava		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
100	Small Niltava		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
101	Bluethroat		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
102	Blue Whistling-Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
103	Black-backed Forktail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
104	Slaty-backed Forktail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
105	Himalayan Bluetail		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
106	White-browed Bush-Robin		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
107	Slaty-blue Flycatcher		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
108	Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
109	Little Pied Flycatcher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
110	Hodgson's Redstart		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
111	Daurian Redstart		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
112	Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
113	Chestnut Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
114	Common Myna		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
115	Jungle Myna		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
116	Great Myna		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
117	Orange-bellied Leafbird		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
118	Fire-breasted Flowerpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
119	Fire-tailed Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
120	Black-throated Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
121	Green-tailed Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
122	Crimson Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
123	Streaked Spiderhunter		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
124	Olive-backed Pipit		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
125	Scarlet Finch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
126	Dark-rumped Rosefinch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
127	Gold-naped Finch	2	Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
128	Dark-breasted Rosefinch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
129	Little Bunting		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
130	House Sparrow		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
131	Eurasian Tree Sparrow		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018

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