 |
| Ward's Trogon, an inhabitant of the moss-laden, temperate broad-leaved forests of the Eastern Himalaya |
This is brief note from a bird-watching oriented trip to Roing Grasslands and Mishmi Hills (Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary), in the Eastern Himalayas of Arunachal Pradesh
Dates: 17th to 23rd March 2018
Locations: Roing Grasslands - Sally Lake - Mishmi Foothills - Tiwari Gaon - Coffee House - Myodia Pass. This is among the classic birding itineraries, where a broad elevational gradient, its associated diversity of habitat and birdlife, is traversed on a relatively easy road (elevational range from around 200m near Roing to 2655m at Myodia pass, encompassing Terai Grasslands, Sub-tropical Evergreen and Temperate Broad-leaved Forests)
Accommodation: DS Hotel (Roing); Coffee House (Myodia Pass)
 |
| Wild Orchid and other epiphytes thrive in this high rainfall, high humidity region |
 |
| View of the Mishmi Range from where the foothills meet the floodplains of the mighty Bramhaputra |
 |
| Marsh Babbler, among a handful of specialist inhabitants of the Terai Grasslands threatened by the widespread conversion of its habitat for agriculture |
Highlights: Over 170 species of birds* in five days of intense birding, including excellent species such as Ward's Trogon, Red-faced Liochicla, Bengal Florican, Mishmi Wren Babbler, Jerdon's and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Scarlet Finch, Gold-naped Finch, Himalayan Cutia, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Lesser Coucal, Golden Babbler, Rufous Backed Sibia, Slaty-backed and Black-backed Forktails, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Black Eagle (and numerous birds of prey), various Laughingthrushes/Bulbuls/Flycatchers/Warblers, a plethora of Fulvettas, Yuhinas, Sibias, Parrotbills, Minlas, other Babblers etc whizzing around, often in famed ‘waves’, in the forest understory as is typical of these superbly diverse Eastern Himalayan Forests. We heard, but could not see the iconic Blyth's Tragopan. Hats off to Adesh Shivkar (from Nature India) and Ravi Meloka (local bird guide), whose phenomenal ears for bird calls and behaviour of the region unravelled this incredibly rich, but impossible to find by sight alone, birdlife. Alas, the splendid birding of India’s northeast is rarely easy given the difficulty of finding birds in the undergrowth, and also the inevitable confusion of which ones to focus on when those waves whizz past you!
 |
| The diminutive Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler. The Eastern Himalayas are known for a great diversity of Babblers that inhabit niches in the complex forest understory |
 |
| Black-eared Shrike Babbler, among the numerous, colourful, smaller birds that typically occur in the famed mixed bird waves of the region |
 |
| Himalayan Cutia an inhabitant of the mid-elevation, broad-leaved forest |
Strikingly, but not unexpectedly (given the local propensity to hunt), barring few and far between sightings of Hoolock Gibbon, Himalayan Marten and a handful of forest squirrels, mammal sightings were nil, in what appeared to be an extensive, albeit disturbed wilderness of the Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary.
 |
| A distant Hoolock Gibbon at Sally Lake - one of the few mammal sightings of the trip |
The hill forests itself appeared superbly diverse, with many species in spring inflorescence - but threats in the form of the traditional practise of slash and burn agriculture and other ‘development’ oriented activities such as road widening can potentially whittle away the riches of these forests. The Roing Grasslands - typical Terai habitat - home for rarities like Jerdon’s and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill and Bengal Florican - seemed relatively pristine, but without protection, could soon disappear under expanding demand for farmland from a growing local population.
 |
| A view of the Greater Himalaya as seen from Myodia Pass, on one of those gloriously crisp, clear days |
 |
| A Magnolia in bloom. The forestscape was peppered with flowering plants displaying their wares - a springtime phenomenon in these seasonal forests |
 |
| Cobra Lily. The Eastern Himalayas are known to host among the greatest diversity of plants on Earth |
While it rained the evening we arrived in Roing and, intermittently, the following day, we were lucky to have dry, crisp, clear days (and star filled nights) subsequently - a blessing in a region known for unpredictable weather. We were so far east, that our days started very early and given the logistics of distances, long. Food while on the road, was often simple, packed rotis-subji-rice substituted with goodies (read, largely namkeen Gujarati style!) from afar. When we had to stop to eat in the few and far between local outlets, food was usually Maggi, Dal, Chawal and some local greens (for the veggies), with an addition of pork and eggs for the non-veggies. The adventurous may want to try the local version of raw beetlenut - quite a sensation, but cant say all pleasant! In all this a special mention of Coffee House (be warned, the name somehow conveys things about the place, which is the exact opposite of what it actually is) - our accommodation up in the hills for three, err, unpleasant nights. Pretty much the only thing going for it is its lovely location close to Myodia Pass and all else goes hurtling downhill from there - the mouldy bed 'linen', broken toilet, the cold that somehow seems to sneak through the ramshackle building to get under your thermal clad skin ... ! But it is all worth it, when you exploring the among the most biodiverse regions on Earth.
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*Checklist (incomplete) of Birds sighted
| Row # |
Species |
Count |
Location |
S/P |
Date |
| 1 |
Oriental Turtle-Dove |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 2 |
Barred Cuckoo-Dove |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 3 |
Bengal Florican |
1 |
Roing |
IN-AR |
23 Mar 2018 |
| 4 |
Lesser Coucal |
1 |
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 5 |
Banded Bay Cuckoo |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 6 |
Large Hawk-Cuckoo |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 7 |
Himalayan Swiftlet |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 8 |
White-breasted Waterhen |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 9 |
Common Sandpiper |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 10 |
Black-winged Kite |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 11 |
Crested Serpent-Eagle |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 12 |
Short-toed Snake-Eagle |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 13 |
Mountain Hawk-Eagle |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 14 |
Rufous-bellied Eagle |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 15 |
Black Eagle |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 16 |
Eurasian Sparrowhawk |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 17 |
Black Kite |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 18 |
Ward's Trogon |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 19 |
Common Kingfisher |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 20 |
Great Barbet |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 21 |
Golden-throated Barbet |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 22 |
Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 23 |
Darjeeling Woodpecker |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 24 |
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 25 |
Short-billed Minivet |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 26 |
Black-eared Shrike-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 27 |
Ashy Drongo |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 28 |
Bronzed Drongo |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 29 |
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 30 |
Hair-crested Drongo |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 31 |
White-throated Fantail |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 32 |
Eurasian Jay |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 33 |
Yellow-billed Blue-Magpie |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 34 |
Bengal Bushlark |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 35 |
Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 36 |
Yellow-browed Tit |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 37 |
Sultan Tit |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 38 |
Yellow-cheeked Tit |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 39 |
Black-throated Tit |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 40 |
White-tailed Nuthatch |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 41 |
Striated Bulbul |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 42 |
Red-whiskered Bulbul |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 43 |
Black Bulbul |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 44 |
Ashy Bulbul |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 45 |
Mountain Bulbul |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 46 |
Scaly-breasted Cupwing |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 47 |
Gray-sided Bush Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 48 |
Yellow-bellied Warbler |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 49 |
Black-faced Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 50 |
Mountain Tailorbird |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 51 |
Ashy-throated Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 52 |
Gray-cheeked Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 53 |
Chestnut-crowned Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 54 |
Gray-hooded Warbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 55 |
Striated Grassbird |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 56 |
Hill Prinia |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 57 |
Yellow-bellied Prinia |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 58 |
Fire-tailed Myzornis |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 59 |
Golden-breasted Fulvetta |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 60 |
Jerdon's Babbler |
1 |
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 61 |
Streak-throated Fulvetta |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 62 |
Rufous-headed Parrotbill |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 63 |
Black-breasted Parrotbill |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 64 |
Black-throated Parrotbill |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 65 |
Striated Yuhina |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 66 |
White-naped Yuhina |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 67 |
Stripe-throated Yuhina |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 68 |
Oriental White-eye |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 69 |
Chestnut-capped Babbler |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 70 |
Pin-striped Tit-Babbler |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 71 |
Golden Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 72 |
Rufous-capped Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 73 |
Rusty-throated Wren-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 74 |
Bar-winged Wren-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 75 |
Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 76 |
Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 77 |
Gray-throated Babbler |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 78 |
Yellow-throated Fulvetta |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 79 |
Marsh Babbler |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
23 Mar 2018 |
| 80 |
Long-billed Wren-Babbler |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 81 |
Ludlow's Fulvetta |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 82 |
Nepal Fulvetta |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 83 |
Himalayan Cutia |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 84 |
Striated Babbler |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 85 |
Spot-breasted Laughingthrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 86 |
Rufous-necked Laughingthrush |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 87 |
Gray-sided Laughingthrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 88 |
Black-faced Laughingthrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 89 |
Beautiful Sibia |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 90 |
Long-tailed Sibia |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 91 |
Silver-eared Mesia |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 92 |
Red-tailed Minla |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 93 |
Rufous-backed Sibia |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 94 |
Red-faced Liocichla |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 95 |
Streak-throated Barwing |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 96 |
Rusty-fronted Barwing |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 97 |
Blue-winged Minla |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
23 Mar 2018 |
| 98 |
Blue-throated Flycatcher |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 99 |
Large Niltava |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 100 |
Small Niltava |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 101 |
Bluethroat |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 102 |
Blue Whistling-Thrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 103 |
Black-backed Forktail |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 104 |
Slaty-backed Forktail |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 105 |
Himalayan Bluetail |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 106 |
White-browed Bush-Robin |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 107 |
Slaty-blue Flycatcher |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 108 |
Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 109 |
Little Pied Flycatcher |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 110 |
Hodgson's Redstart |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 111 |
Daurian Redstart |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 112 |
Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 113 |
Chestnut Thrush |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 114 |
Common Myna |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 115 |
Jungle Myna |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
23 Mar 2018 |
| 116 |
Great Myna |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 117 |
Orange-bellied Leafbird |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 118 |
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 119 |
Fire-tailed Sunbird |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 120 |
Black-throated Sunbird |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 121 |
Green-tailed Sunbird |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 122 |
Crimson Sunbird |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 123 |
Streaked Spiderhunter |
|
Sally Lake |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 124 |
Olive-backed Pipit |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 125 |
Scarlet Finch |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
19 Mar 2018 |
| 126 |
Dark-rumped Rosefinch |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 127 |
Gold-naped Finch |
2 |
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
21 Mar 2018 |
| 128 |
Dark-breasted Rosefinch |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
20 Mar 2018 |
| 129 |
Little Bunting |
|
Mehao WLS |
IN-AR |
22 Mar 2018 |
| 130 |
House Sparrow |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
| 131 |
Eurasian Tree Sparrow |
|
Roing |
IN-AR |
18 Mar 2018 |
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