Anamalai Tiger Reserve (Valparai area), October 2019: Trip Report

Author: Ravi Kailas (ficustours@gmail.com)

Dates: 15th to 18th October 2019

Great Pied Hornbill, among the main attractions in this landscape

The Anamalai Hills is a repository of the immense biodiversity of the Western Ghats of south India.  Somewhat surprisingly, the disturbed, plantation-rainforest landscape in the Valparai area of these hills, located as it is, surrounded on all sides by protected areas, is one of the best places to see some of Western Ghats's mammalian specialities, including endemics like Nilgiri Tahr, Lion-tailed Macaque, Nilgiri Langur, Brown Palm Civet with relative ease, with chances of rarities like Brown Mongoose, Travancore Flying Squirrel and even Nilgiri Marten. There is also potential for Elephant, Gaur, Dhole, Sloth Bear and Leopard, the former two more likely to show themselves up, towering over tea bushes as they move through the landscape. Birdlife, typical of the monsoon forests of the Western Ghats, are also (or can be) on display, including such species like Nilgiri Flycatcher, Malabar Trogon, Rufous Babbler, Wynaad Laughing Thrush, Malabar Grey and Great Pied Hornbills and Malabar and White-cheeked Barbets. While there is much else to be appreciated, including an engrossing floristic and small vertebrate diversity, our focus on this brief visit, was on Great Pied Hornbill congregations (known from specific locations, seasonally, in the landscape) and some of the endemic mammals of the Western Ghats, that this landscape is known for. 

A species of Impatiens among the immense floristic diversity of the Western Ghats

Nilgiri Langur

Nilgiri Flycatcher

The climb to Valparai begins along a hairpin bend infested, steep, rocky, sparsely vegetated slope, that rises over the Aliyar Reservoir. This section of the road, upto about 700m in elevation, is a regular spot, unusually for a species mostly restricted to montane grasslands above 1750m, for the endemic Nilgiri Tahr, but this was one of those rare occasions, when we missed the ungulates on the drive up. While late in the season for rains, it was apparent, from the road-side puddles and intermittently threateningly cloudy skies, that moisture wasn't just content in hanging in the air. Higher up, the road hugs a gentler terrain, the forests increasingly dense/predominantly evergreen, exposed to the to the moister winds from the west, rising upto 1500m, through a pristine patch of montane forest, before descending into a valley of (predominantly tea) plantation-forest matrix where we would be based. The fauna too changes with the moisture gradient and elevation, with Nilgiri Langur replacing the South-eastern Langur, and birds like Nilgiri Flycatcher, White-cheeked Barbet, Malabar Grey Hornbill, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and Rufous Babbler, especially vocal later in the evening, also made an appearance. A grove of flowering trees (species?) turned out to be magnet for the Malabar Tree Nymph, a large-winged butterfly partial to (elegantly) gliding amidst inflorescence in the canopy, as they were when we saw them. Upon reaching the Valparai Valley, an hour or so before sunset, our first priority was the check a regular spot Great Pied Hornbill, in a coffee plantation near Varatuparai (a small planation settlement). A road descending into the plantation, affords of an excellent view of the canopy rising from the planation, and, from this platform, dextrously avoiding the occasional speeding bus, we were entertained for more than an hour, watching a pair of Great Pied Hornbill, feeding on a copiously fruit laden canopy (tree species?), until they (typically noisily) flew away to roost (presumably) at dusk.  

Malabar Tree Nymph - a canopy specialist

A fruiting tree was host to a pair of Great Pied Hornbill for a good part of two days

Later that night, a brief walk inside the Puduthottam Estate, a patch of rainforest within a tea plantation, and the scene of our accommodation for two nights, produced innumerable Indian Giant Flying Squirrels, some with varying extent of greying fur on their face, making us question our ID, if some of the them could be the rarely seen, endemic, Travancore Flying Squirrel (but, as it turned out, just a racial variation of the Indian Giant), Sambar & Barking deers. This patch has potential for almost all the larger mammals found in this landscape, some of their presence confirmed with spoor and scat, including creatures of the dark like Brown Palm Civet, Leopard, Sloth Bear, but none of these relative rarities showed themselves up, that night. 

Indian Scops Owl

Orange Minivet
 

The next morning, a walk through the (much less wild seeming, in broad daylight) estate produced some usual suspects (bar a roosting Indian Scops Owl), including Indian Munjtac, Striped-necked Mongoose and the endemic Western Ghats Squirrel among them, but things go more interesting when we decided to stake out the 'hornbill tree' from the previous evening. The hornbills did not seem to be enjoy the same food for dinner and breakfast (but we were proven wrong later in the morning), however we were entertained by the buzz of morning activity around a fruiting fig tree, conveniently (except we had to dodge an occasional heavy vehicle hurtling downhill) located on the side of the road. We were attracted to this roadside spectacle by the loud calls of a large flock of Southern Hill Myna, seemingly excited by the abundance of breakfast within easy access, to happen upon somewhat quieter Yellow-browed Bulbul, Malabar and White-cheeked Barbets, Asian Fairy Bluebird, a young Great Pied Hornbill, Grey-fronted Green Pigeon, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Indian Giant Squirrel and Bonnet Macaque all gorging on fruit from this one tree. Ashy Drongo, Orange Minivet and Greater Flameback Woodpecker also paid occasional visits, likely attracted by associated insect life. This was brief, engrossing window into the inter-dependence of figs and their seed dispersers (among several other known associations, but unnoticed here) - a significant component of biodiversity in tropical forests. Watching this feeding frenzy built-up an appetite for our own lunch, which was slightly delayed, 'way-sided' as we were by a typically bold/habituated troop of Lion-tailed Macaque, just as we entered the Puduthottam Estate (this little patch of rainforest-tea plantations, with a main road passing through it, is home to 100 plus of these endangered primates, with one large and two smaller splinter troops, thriving on the easy availability of food, to suite a variety of macaque palates, in a human dominated landscape). 

Asian Fairly Bluebird

Malabar Barbet

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel 

Great Pied Hornbill

An early evening until darkness vigil at the 'hornbill tree' produced the same (?), seemingly insatiable pair, the fruit-laden canopy almost their exclusive domain during the day, as well as Nilgiri Langur, Gaur, Barking Deer, Striped necked-Mongoose and Malabar Grey Hornbill, in the vicinity. Waiting after dark, in hope of the endemic Brown Palm Civet on the copiously fruiting road-side Ficus, was surprisingly bereft of reward (not even bats, evident), but the more distant 'hornbill tree' had a visitor which appeared to be the civet of choice, but could not distinguish convincingly from Indian Giant Flying Squirrel. A quiet evening otherwise, with Sambar, Indian Giant Flying Squirrel and Gaur in the darkness, on the way back to base and around. 

A troop of highly habituated Lion-tailed Macaque monkeying around 

A bull Gaur, not at his majestic best

The next morning a long trudge to the Sekalmudi Estate, preceded by a visit to the 'hornbill tree' was not especially productive (the hornbills were missing this morning and the activity on the fruiting fig was subdued as well), however our luck changed in the afternoon when were entertained by a large troop of Lion-tailed Macaque, foraging (and otherwise socially interacting) along the main road that runs through the Puduthottam Estate. From here, we visited the Stanmore Bungalow, on the fringes of which the rare Brown Mongoose have been seen on occasion. While the brown version did not show, we did see the much commoner, albeit shy, Ruddy Mongoose, but the real highlight from this visit was finding a  beautiful, yellow marked with black bands species (Occelate Sheildtail?) of Shieldtail (a family of burrowing snakes known only from the hills of south India and Sri Lanka), as it moved across the concrete footpath, seemingly in search of a more congenial habitat of damp soil. Leaving here towards the Anamalai Club, our host for the night, via the Old Valparai Road, produced a satisfying sighting of a large herd of Gaur, moving up a bracken-filled, rocky slope, on a cool, cloudy evening. From the club premises, we had an unobstructed view of the surrounding open slopes and we spent the evening looking for wildlife from this vantage point. There was healthy bird activity, including the endemic Rufous Babbler before dusk and a Jungle Nightjar at the cusp of darkness. As darkness descended, a couple of shapes on the adjacent slope, revealed themselves as a Sambar stag, tentatively walking downhill and a Leopard, watching the slope ahead, perched motionless on a rock. We watched this scene for a few minutes, until the Leopard disappeared into the bracken, followed by (typically) shockingly loud Sambar alarm calls, taking a pre-dinner break. Walking out of room, taking a circuitous route to dining hall, via the unfenced club premises, turned out to be a double-edged sword, and as we turned a corner we startled a Sloth Bear and its baby, a few feet away, devouring a copious (even by their standards) outbreak of winged-termites, duly attracted to the lights of the club building. The events that ensued soon after were a bit of a blur,  with vague memories of mama bear appearing to turn threateningly towards us, as we turned and bolted into darkness of the opposite direction. Then there was a sensation of hands and feet all around and hard ground on my face, and the relatively minor injuries that resulted put paid to any further activities that we had planned for in the rest of the trip ..... 

The dominant male in a large troop of Lion-tailed Macaque

Ocellate Sheildtail Snake (probably)

Jungle Nightjar

As an aside, Sloth Bear attacks on people are a relatively frequent occurrence in this human-dominated landscape. However, although this particular situation did not result in a serious incident, it could well have turned out a lot worse for us, and sadly, for wildlife as well, as such incidents always show them off in bad light. A lesson learnt, even for seasoned naturalists like us, to be keenly aware of our surroundings, while in locations with potentially dangerous large animals, even if their presence seems unlikely (for example here within a large, well-lit clearing of the hotel premises, but the emergence of winged-termites, manna from heaven for all manner of wildlife, seemed to have flipped the balance from caution to gay abandon for this bear family...)

List of Mammals Seen*

Jungle Striped Squirrel Funambulus tristriatus

Three Striped Palm Squirrel Funambulus palmarum

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista philippensis philippensis

Indian Giant Squirrel Ratufa indica maxima

Common Leopard Panthera pardus

Sloth Bear Melursus ursinus

Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii

Striped-neck Mongoose Herpestes vitticollis

Indian Gaur Bos gaurus

Indian or Red Munjtac Muntiacus muntjak

Sambar Cervus unicolor

Bonnet Macaque Macaca radiata

Lion-tailed Macaque Macaca Silenus

Nilgiri Langur semnopithecus Johnii

South-eastern Langur Semnopithecus priam

*Doubtful sighting of Brown Palm Civet

Highlight Birds Seen

Nilgiri Flycatcher

Jungle Nightjar

Rufous Babbler

Indian Scimitar Babbler

Brown-cheeked Fulvetta

Malabar Grey Hornbill

Great Pied Hornbill

White-cheeked Barbet

Malabar Barbet

Greater Flameback Woodpecker

Southern Hill Myna

Grey-fronted Green Pigeon

Orange Minivet

Asian Fairy Bluebird

Indian Scops Owl

Crested Serpent Eagle 

Black-shouldered Kite

Malabar Parakeet

Vernal Hanging Parrot

Malabar Whistling Thrush

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Borneo, The land of dipterocarps, August 2014: A pictorial report

Author: Ravi Kailas

Bornean Orangutang at Kinabantagan

Borneo, the Earth's third largest island, and home to among its great rainforests, was high on my bucket list of places to visit, for its reputed natural history splendours. Happily I managed a foray in August 2014, to a tiny corner of the island, in the Sabah province of Malaysia and was duly amazed by the diversity of animals, and their great rainforest home, albeit experiencing a mere fraction of the island's considerable natural riches (only lowland, interior forests and their denizens on this visit). For a visitor without a focussed list of target species, but rather to soak in whatever came my (often solo) way, I ended up with sightings of Bornean Orangutang, Bornean Gibbon, Proboscis Monkey, Philippine Slow Loris, seven out of eight species of Hornbill, including Helmeted, found on the island, the rarely seen Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Storm's Stork, Bornean Falconet, Jerdon's Baza, Saltwater Crocodile and Water Monitor Lizard aplenty, among a variety of other creatures reflective of the immense diversity of tropical rainforests. However, the experience was enriching, not just because of what I could see in isolation, but also, the overall experience, the sounds, smells, humidity, light (or the lack of it!) in the forest interiors, the mesmerising morning mist that envelopes the canopy, as much as the sights within, among the giant trees of undisturbed Dipterocarp forests (the predominant lowland forest type of Borneo, which is incidentally, home to the most diverse, albeit rapidly depleting, of this forest type). While, it would have been more than nice to add a Sunda Clouded Leopard or so onto the list of sightings, or at least, one among Colugo, Pygmy Elephant or Leopard Cat, this was a very satisfactory first time visit to the island. 

Report*

Kinabantagan River - wildlife rich, albeit disturbed forest along the Kinabantagan River

Proboscis Monkey at Kinabantangan

Dates: 8th to 11th Aug 2014

A satisfactory variety of wildlife, including a female & young Bornean Orangutang and an adult male, several of those curious looking, pot-bellied (and this with a spartan diet of leaves & fruit) Proboscis Monkey, Southern Pig-tailed Macaque, the ubiquitous Prevost's Squirrel, Saltwater Crocodile, Water Monitor Lizard, the endangered Storm's Stork, Diard's Trogon and that fleeting glimpse of the rare Bornean Ground Cuckoo, teasing us with a pervading call, seemingly just from behind the first layer of undergrowth, six species of Hornbill, Jerdon's Baza, Buffy Fish Owl, Asian Palm Civet and Blue-eared Kingfisher, the latter three at night. Almost all sighting effort from the boat, with some minor forays on foot, exploring the narrow band of disturbed forest (a various stages of logging), along the river. Misses from here included Bornean Elephant, which are relatively easily seen in this location, as also the Oriental Bay Owl, which can be seen around my accommodation, with some effort, which I am guilty of not putting in, at night. While this was a window to the tropical rainforest of southeast Asia and its occupants, including the typically, 'equatorial' mid-afternoon thunderstorm, this location did not satisfy the aesthetic expectations of a rainforest experience. 

Diard's Trogon

Asian Palm Civet

Buffy Fish Owl

Wrinkled Hornbill, one among 8 species found on the island

The endangered Storm's Stork

Danum Valley Conservation Area - Pristine dipterocarp forest and associated diversity of wildlife

Philippine Slow Loris

Looking towards Dipterocarp canopy in the early hours of the morning

Dates: 11th to 15th Aug 2014

This is reputedly among the best protected, lowland rainforest locations in Borneo, and without basis for comparison, my forays into these forests of immensely tall dipterocarp trees, suggested nothing that disputed this status. Walking indistinct trails, inside the dark, humid interiors of the forest, and exploring the more wildlife-sighting friendly periphery, while not as productive for sheer numbers as the experience at Kinabantangan, produced rarities like the Helmeted Hornbill as well as a selection of species including Philippine Slow Loris, Red Leaf Monkey, Bornean Gibbon, a species of otter (smooth coated?), a nocturnal mustelid (some kind of ferret badger?), Bornean Falconet, flying lizards and tree skinks, various frogs, spiders, ants and leeches that were not seen in the earlier location. There was also a single, female Bornean Orangutang, in the periphery of the forest and close to my accommodation. Among the enduring memories also from here, the multifarious sounds of the rainforest, the scene of morning mist lifting from the treetops, as the day warms up, a microclimate unto its own, the forest floor alive with fallen fruit, seed, rotting wood and their predators.... 

Bornean Falconet, among the smallest birds of prey on Earth

A species of Tarantula

Dipterocarp seed

A species of tree skink

Rainforest biodiversity

Rainforest biodiversity

Red Leaf Monkey

Sepilok - a small patch of healthy rainforest, home to rehabilitated Bornean Orangutang among other wildlife:

Dates: 15th to 16th Aug 2014

A brief visit here was not especially productive, but the healthy forest patch and the convenient canopy walkway (note: to be avoided during an electric storm!) promised much in terms of birdlife and other arboreal wildlife. There were also trails into the forest, that could be productive for typical rainforest biodiversity as well ground feeding specialists like pittas. While not a wildlife moment, it was quite something to see a semi-wild fully grown, male Orangutang, walk into an open air restaurant in the periphery of the reserve (where I was having a dinner), and towards one of the nearby tables, possibly gesturing (not especially proficient in Orangutanese), to join in for a meal! 

*An ideal extension to the itinerary would have been a visit to the Mount Kinabalu area, to appreciate the changes in biodiversity with altitude. Could have also planned a visit to Mabul (well known for marine diversity) as well as Tabin Wildlife Reserve

Logistics Etc*

Travel

Travelled by air to Sandakan (well connected to Kota Kinabalu and Kuala Lumpur) and by road (private taxi) to Kinabantangan and from there to Lahad Datu (the gateway to Danum Valley - the accommodation arranges transfers from here). 

On the return, by road (private taxi) from Lahad Datu to Sepilok, and flew out from Sandakan. 

Typically easy road travel on good roads (none of the sectors longer than 4-5 hrs), and mostly through Oil Palm plantations (sigh). 

Lodging 

Kinabantagan 

Entering the Kinabantangan Jungle Camp

Water Monitor Lizard on campus 

Stayed at the Kinabnatangan Jungle Camp - a rustic affair, furnished comfortably enough (but don't expect luxuries, like fancy soaps, high end bed linen etc in your room, at least as of 2014, but rather that slightly damp/a touch mouldy feel to the interiors, as is typical of damp locations), in a well wooded patch along the river. The place is owned by an ace local birder, Robert Chong, and is well set-up for keen nature enthusiasts. Host went out of the way to cater to my 'eggetarian' diet, with eggs, rice and a tasty veggie dish seemingly made with jungle greens, among the staple nourishment on my visit there. White-capped Shama, Water Monitor Lizard and Prevost's Squirrel aplenty on campus, but potential for much other wildlife in the vicinity, if one puts in the requisite effort, I would imagine. 

White-crowned Shama were ubiquitous on campus

Danum Valley 

Danum Valley Field Centre

Stayed at the superbly located Danum Valley Filed Centre, on the edge of pristine rainforest. There is much wildlife that visits around the campus - I saw Helmeted Hornbill, Bornean Gibbon, Red Leaf Monkey, Bornean Falconet, Orangutang, otters (sp?) and a whole host of birds, practically outside my room - but also trails of varying lengths leading into pristine rainforest. While the centre offers 'guided' night walks, night drives and a sunrise experience (seeing the mist clear over the canopy from a high point), all worthwhile, there is not much interpretation from the 'guides', who just take you around for the activity (language can be an issue as well). For the the day forays on the trails into the forest, you are pretty much on your own, and unless you are experienced with jungle navigation (and even if you are not), you might want to buddy up and not get lost together (the former advice I did not take, but found my way around well enough to tell the tale!). 

Overlooking the rainforest canopy at sunrise

Danum Valley Field Centre

The field centre offers double rooms, dorms and tented accommodation and my room turned out spartan, but comfortable enough, but more importantly felt well connected with the outside environment. The centre in well visited by international tourists and had a cosmopolitan vibe. They take special requests for vegetarian meals and turned out surprising tasty (expectations prior to the visit was of a very remote location, but turned out not the case), with dedicated mains for lunch and dinner. 

Sepilok

Quite a resorty location and nothing of value that I can add for a better natural history experience. I stayed at the relatively fancy Sepilok Forest Edge Resort, which was nice after the simpler fare over the past week or so. 

*All this information from 2014 and not quite sure of relevance/accuracy as on date

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Manas NP, Assam: A Trip Report from a visit in December 2019

Author: Ravi Kailas (ficustours@gmail.com)

Dates: 11th to 15th December 2019

One-horned Rhinoceros are among Manas's fantastic mammal diversity

What was meant to be a very brief visit to Manas last December, turned out longer, thanks to the intricacies of India's vibrant democracy and politics. I could have, after 2 nights here, travelled as planned though, to Kakoijana Reserve Forest, then onward to Kaziranga NP and Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary - however, such a move would have probably resulted in me being hit by rock targeting my nut (or something equally unpleasant). There was also a faint possibility of me escaping unscathed, but I decided to play the percentages and brave the alternative of staying back close to a friendly village in a quiet corner of Assam with three square meals of fresh, Assamese grub, unlimited tea and with an alluring, biodiverse national park, largely bereft of other tourists to boot, at my door-step. The fact that Manas hosts some of India's rarest mammals (including species like Mainland Clouded Leopard, Binturong, Pygmy Hog and Hispid Hare), with at least a vague chance of seeing them, and a reputation for fantastic birdlife (including as one of the best places to see Bengal Florican in its breeding season, and a whole host of birdlife where the Brahmaputra's floodplains meet the Eastern Himalayas), made the decision to stay put a no-brainer. And there were tantalising prospects like staying the famed, superbly located, Mathanguri FRH, which at other times, would be booked out well in advance and visits to Bhutan, via the contiguous Royal Manas National Park ....   

Manas landscape

Lowland forest in Manas

This trip, however, was not just any other wildlife travel experience, with the rather more relaxed pace of it (albeit, forced upon by the circumstances), allowed me to look a little bit under the hood of the park - once a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its wildlife riches, then devastated by insurgency and its side-effects on its wildlife, bouncing back of late, but still a pale shadow of its (reputedly) former self. Samson (my naturalist guide), reminisced about the superb quality of the grasslands in the past, now slowly taken over by woodland and weedy species. He spoke about of the disturbance caused by ever increasing vehicular movement moving into Bhutan through Manas (an 24hr affair), and correlating this to how many species that were relatively easy to see earlier (Leopard Cat! among them), were hardly seen these days. About how the population of Indian Peafowl had increased tremendously (the ecological causes and implications?) and to a lesser extent, of leopards (on the face of it, a desirable situation, but could there be a more sinister ecological cause for this?). On the bright side, Samson spoke about lasting peace in the region after decades of insurgency, villages here, even during the troubled times when I visited, calm and peaceful, insulated from the political strife that had brought the rest of Assam to a standstill...... 

The Wildlife ..... 

The rather attractive Silver-breasted Broadbill showed up in beautiful light one morning

As it turned out, the birdlife was impressive and engrossing, especially for sheer numbers and diversity, reflective of the variety of habitats that Manas encompasses, with species like Silver-breasted Broadbill, Collared Falconet, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Chestnut-capped Babbler, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Speckled Piculet, Black-backed and Slaty-backed Forktails, Rufous-necked Laughingthrush, Pin-striped Tit Babbler, Small Niltava and Pin-tailed Green Pigeon among the highlights. The richness of this birdlife was especially evident on a full day outing to Mathanguri FRH from the Bansbari entrance gate, with 88 species (including most of the aforementioned highlights, some in noisy, abundant, mixed flocks of Phylloscopus warblers, woodpeckers, nuthatches, drongos, fantails and minivets) making it to the list, as we patiently scoured the various game roads, exploring the lowland forests and grasslands, on a crisply cool, clear day. Another feature of the birdlife on this visit was the sheer abundance of Green Pigeons (especially of Yellow-footed, but also Pin-tailed), most seen feeding on copiously fruiting Bischofia javanica (these fruits also attracted barbets, bulbuls and parakeets in good numbers). The road to Bhutan from Mathanguri, through a distinctly different (to the typical floodplains habitat on the Indian side) hill forest, promised much for birdlife, but turned out surprisingly quiet on that front (admittedly though, the birding effort was somewhat limited by pressures of time). However, efforts on this route did prove productive for the lovely Sultan Tit, Slaty-backed Forktail and Crimson and Black-throated Sunbirds, that I had not seen in the Indian side of Manas. There was decent birdlife as well, on the fringes of the park, walking around the predominantly tea plantation dominated countryside, with patches of woodland and settlements to break the monotony, and also along the fence demarcating the park boundary, producing species like Yellow-vented Warbler, Little Pied Flycatcher and Common Quail, among commoner birds, between frequent stops for black tea and snacks. Nights in the vicinity of my lodge, often in efforts to find a bar of mobile connectivity (the other bars were shut given the political situation)  to enquire about happenings in the outside world (necessary to plot my escape back home via this potential death trap - or so the television media had me believe) produced Brown Hawk Owl and Asian Barred Owlet. 

Pin-striped Green Pigeon

The fruits of the Bischofia javanica were very popular among Green Pigeons

Pin-striped Tit Babbler

Chestnut-capped Babbler

 

While Manas's rarer mammals were always going to be, well, rare, I was treated to good sightings of One-horned Rhinoceros (reintroduced here about 15 years back, after the local population was decimated by poaching), Asian Elephant, Assamese Macaque, Capped Langur and a host of other smaller mammals. Among them were numerous sightings of three diurnal squirrels, namely, Black Giant, Hoary-Bellied and the diminutive Himalayan Striped. The only sighting of Assamese Macaque was on the forest road leading from Mathanguri to Bhutan (pic below). The presence of Assamese Macaque surprised Samson (my guide), who had, until now, identified them as the similar looking Rhesus Macaque. For large mammals, the clearing overlooked by the Bura Buri (?) watch-tower was a productive site, where elephant, rhino and gaur are attracted to the salt put out by the forest staff (a less than desirable practise for attracting wildlife, discontinued in more evolved parks). Among the (realistic) target species of mine was to see Crab-eating Mongoose, which are known from this landscape, but dedicated efforts looking around jungle streams and ponds, was productive only for single sighting of the more widespread Small Indian Mongoose. Another creature that my guide was keen to show me was a Black Panther, which are reputedly seen, somewhat regularly, in Manas. As it turned out, no luck on that front, nor for the more common variant of the Leopard (except pug marks on the road leading to Bhutan from Mathanguri). There was no sign of Gee's Golden Langur either, which were once regular just across the river (in Bhutan) from Mathanguri, but now, reputedly, very irregular in these parts. As per my guide, night forays along the park boundary adjacent to the Bansbari Gate, can sometimes be productive for Hispid Hare, but given the troubled times, I was advised not to venture out in the dark, so I cannot confirm either way. Mainland Clouded Leopard are seen once or twice a year in Manas, so perhaps not a realistic target species here, especially given the restrictions for tourists to move around in the dark. However, on my evening visit to Bhutan, on the 13km drive (one way) from Mathanguri to Panbang and back, on a road which is open for traffic through the night (technically though, I understood, only for Bhutanese nationals going back and forth), extended into the dark - giving me an opportunity to look for mammals (and what mouth-watering possibilities in these parts!, but I had no luck whatsoever on this effort) in the dark in a very promising stretch of hill forest. There was nobody on either the Bhutanese or Indian sides to monitor the road either, but this could just be an aberration (given the exceptional circumstances) and you might get an untimely tap on your shoulder, just as you focus on a cat like animal skulking in the undergrowth, when you try. One does need to stay at the Mathanguri FRH though, for this potential activity, and the probability of confirmed bookings here, on the dates of your choice, may just be about be as likely as coming across the mammals you are keenly seeking out in these parts!

The sole sighting of Assamese Macaque on the Panbang-Mathanguri Road

Capped Langur were the commonest primates in Manas

Among the several herds of elephants on this visit

Himalayan-striped Squirrel

 

Logistics etc. 

The arrangements for the accommodation in Manas and the taxi that ferried me from Guwahati was through the excellent Ankur Burman, who operates a regionally focussed travel outfit, freelances as a guide, owns a restaurant serving Assamese cuisine (Green Chilly Restaurant near Abhyapuri, an hour or so from Manas) and works for a wildlife conservation organisation called Aranyak. Do get in touch with him for your local travel needs (including for safaris in Manas NP and the rest of Assam), taxi bookings, cycling expeditions, camping experiences and other locally oriented experiential travel  - +91 97063 42001/+91 60013 04125. I was especially impressed with the extra care and concern from his end, to keep me safe, updated on local conditions as they evolved and his assistance to get me back home, in those times of strife and uncertainty in Assam. 

The affable Gopen Indigo (+91 97069 61022), the driver (and owner) of the Swift Dzire (my taxi), had some inside scoop on the best samosas and jaal mudi at the village near Bansbari Gate and was generally patient and obliging with my (potentially) inexplicable fascination with monkeys, birds and mammal poo. 

Accommodation

I stayed at the Birina Lodge, about a km from the Bansbari Gate. The budget accommodation is pleasantly located amidst tea plantations, in a rural landscape, with simple and rustic rooms, comfortably furnished (they offer both independent cottages and spacious rooms in the main building, with en-suite facilities). The food was simple, delicious, local style cuisine with rotis, rice, dal and freshly sourced veggies (the brinjal was insanely soft!) as the mainstay. A special thanks to Mr Kishak Pathak, the manager at the lodge, and all his staff for the friendly hospitality and making me feel very safe, when I was almost the only tourist in general vicinity. Mr. Kishak was also suitably well connected with the forest department and helped arrange my accommodation at Mathanguri FRH, all the safari logistics, including my naturalist guide, Samson (who turned out to be a very good birder and suitably well informed about the nuances of Manas as will be useful to nature enthusiasts. Do get in touch with him for your guiding needs here +91 7986942708). 

Mathanguri and across to Bhutan

Readers who have braved the piece thus far, would have likely guessed, a. that I managed a brief stay at the Mathanguri FRH, and, b. that I entered Bhutan from there. 

The view, overlooking the Manas River from the Mathanguri FRH

Mathanguri Forest Resthouse is a forest department managed set-up about 20km from the Bansbari Gate, on the Bhutan border.  The unfenced building is spectacularly located on the high banks of the Manas River, overlooking the river and the forested hills of the Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan (a contiguous protected area with India's Manas NP). My overnight stay here was one of those totally unplanned, serendipitous events, facilitated, ironically, by my being 'forced' to stay back in Manas, while other visitors, some of whom had managed to book rooms here at this time, had to cancel their plans for the same reasons. 

The view of the Manas River, a scenic accompaniment on the Mathanguri-Panbang road

Among the numerous hill streams on the Mathanguri-Panbang road

The entrance to the Royal Manas NP along the road to Panbang 

Panbang, the closest town in Bhutan, is about 13Km from Mathanguri, on a dirt road through a lovely, fern-adorned hill forest, crisscrossing numerous, crystal clear streams with the shingle-filled Manas River a constant companion on one side of the road. However, one enters Bhutan (and the Royal Manas NP), within a km from Mathanguri and the road is bereft of any other settlement until reaching a check-post at Panbang. 

Indian Nationals are allowed into this charming little town, for a small fee (and upon producing a Passport or Voter ID ... I managed with an Aadhar though), during the day - so close to India, yet quite distinct in appearance, language and religion - but can only access a small portion of it. While the town is connected to the rest of Bhutan by road, visitors are not allowed to enter further into the country through this border (and my feeble attempts to make good a grandiose plan to get back home via Bhutan, to avoid the strife torn route via Assam, was effectively thwarted by a friendly, but firm lady, in-charge of the entrance tickets at the check-post). The town has a smattering of restaurants (better stocked with Druk beer and green tea than vegetarian food), lodging (where visitors entering through this border cannot stay overnight in any-case) and shops. While visiting there in the morning, I tried an interesting breakfast fare of rice with a creamy potato dish, rich in turmeric, and Dal, distinctly seasoned with star anise, served with a side of green chilly, onion and Kaaza Nimbu (a very aromatic, elongated lemon from Assam). The food was definitely familiar but there was something charmingly foreign about it as well. It might help to know that Indian Rupees is accepted in Panbang (and I understand in the rest of Bhutan), but you will likely get your change in the local currency. 

Breakfast (!) at Panbang

List of Mammals Seen

Asiatic Elephant Elephas maximus

Asiatic Water Buffalo Bubalus arnee

Greater One-horned Rhinoceros Rhinoceros unicornis

Gaur Bos gaurus

Indian Munjtac Muntiacus muntjak

Sambar Cervus unicolor

Wild Pig Sus scrofa

Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii

Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor

Hoary-bellied Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus

Capped Langur Trachypithecus pileatus

Assamese Macaque Macaca assamensis

Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta

Small Indian Mongoose Herpestes auropunctatus

List of Birds Seen 

Eurasian Moorhen

Ruddy-breasted Crake

Great Egret

Small Minivet

Citrine Wagtail

Brown Shrike

Yellow-vented Warbler

Indian White-eye

Common Merganser

Red Junglefowl

Kalij Pheasant

Pin-tailed Green-Pigeon

Green-billed Malkoha

Common Hawk-Cuckoo

Indian Thick-knee

Black-necked Stork

Osprey

Rufous-bellied Eagle

Asian Barred Owlet

Blue-bearded Bee-eater

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater

Indian Roller

Speckled Piculet

Gray-capped Woodpecker

Greater Flameback

Lesser Yellownape

Streak-throated Woodpecker

Greater Yellownape

Collared Falconet

Silver-breasted Broadbill

Long-tailed Minivet

Short-billed Minivet

Scarlet Minivet

Black-winged Cuckooshrike

Black-hooded Oriole

Ashy Woodswallow

Common Iora

White-throated Fantail

Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo

Hair-crested Drongo

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo

Common Green-Magpie

Rufous Treepie

Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail

Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher

Sultan Tit

Cinereous Tit

White-throated Bulbul

Blyth's Leaf Warbler

Chestnut-capped Babbler

Pin-striped Tit-Babbler

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch

Asian Brown Flycatcher

Oriental Magpie-Robin

Pale Blue Flycatcher

Small Niltava

Black-backed Forktail

Slaty-backed Forktail

Little Pied Flycatcher

Plumbeous Redstart

White-capped Redstart

Ruby-cheeked Sunbird

Crimson Sunbird

Black-throated Sunbird

Streaked Spiderhunter

Asian Fairy-bluebird

Indian Peafowl

Oriental Turtle-Dove

Spotted Dove

Yellow-footed Green-Pigeon

Green Imperial-Pigeon

White-breasted Waterhen

Red-wattled Lapwing

Green Sandpiper

Asian Openbill

Lesser Adjutant

Great Cormorant 

Little Cormorant

Spot-billed Pelican

Little Egret

Cattle Egret

Indian Pond-Heron

Crested Serpent-Eagle

Changeable Hawk-Eagle

Common Kingfisher

Stork-billed Kingfisher

White-throated Kingfisher

Green Bee-eater

Lineated Barbet

Blue-throated Barbet

Eurasian Wryneck

Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker

Gray-headed Woodpecker

Red-breasted Parakeet

Large Cuckooshrike

Black Drongo

Bronzed Drongo

Long-tailed Shrike

Gray-backed Shrike

Black-crested Bulbul

Red-vented Bulbul

Red-whiskered Bulbul

Dusky Warbler

Striated Babbler

Jungle Babbler

Rufous-necked Laughingthrush

Asian Pied Starling

Chestnut-tailed Starling

Common Myna

Jungle Myna

Great Myna

Taiga Flycatcher

Siberian Stonechat

White Wagtail

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