Report: Birding in Mishmi Hills, Arunachal Pradesh, March 2018

Ward's Trogon, an inhabitant of the moss-laden, temperate broad-leaved forests of the Eastern Himalaya

This is brief note from a bird-watching oriented trip to Roing Grasslands and Mishmi Hills (Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary), in the Eastern Himalayas of Arunachal Pradesh 

Please follow link for a complete picture gallery from this trip

Dates: 17th to 23rd March 2018

Locations: Roing Grasslands - Sally Lake - Mishmi Foothills - Tiwari Gaon - Coffee House - Myodia Pass. This is among the classic birding itineraries, where a broad elevational gradient, its associated diversity of habitat and birdlife, is traversed on a relatively easy road (elevational range from around 200m near Roing to 2655m at Myodia pass, encompassing Terai Grasslands, Sub-tropical Evergreen and Temperate Broad-leaved Forests)

Accommodation: DS Hotel (Roing); Coffee House (Myodia Pass)

Wild Orchid and other epiphytes thrive in this high rainfall, high humidity region

View of the Mishmi Range from where the foothills meet the floodplains of the mighty Bramhaputra

Marsh Babbler, among a handful of specialist inhabitants of the Terai Grasslands threatened by the widespread conversion of its habitat for agriculture

Highlights: Over 170 species of birds* in five days of intense birding, including excellent species such as Ward's Trogon, Red-faced Liochicla, Bengal Florican, Mishmi Wren Babbler, Jerdon's and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Scarlet Finch, Gold-naped Finch, Himalayan Cutia, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Lesser Coucal, Golden Babbler, Rufous Backed Sibia, Slaty-backed and Black-backed Forktails, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Black Eagle (and numerous birds of prey), various Laughingthrushes/Bulbuls/Flycatchers/Warblers, a plethora of Fulvettas, Yuhinas, Sibias, Parrotbills, Minlas, other Babblers etc whizzing around, often in famed ‘waves’, in the forest understory as is typical of these superbly diverse Eastern Himalayan Forests. We heard, but could not see the iconic Blyth's Tragopan. Hats off to Adesh Shivkar (from Nature India) and Ravi Meloka (local bird guide), whose phenomenal ears for bird calls and behaviour of the region unravelled this incredibly rich, but impossible to find by sight alone, birdlife. Alas, the splendid birding of India’s northeast is rarely easy given the difficulty of finding birds in the undergrowth, and also the inevitable confusion of which ones to focus on when those waves whizz past you!

The diminutive Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler. The Eastern Himalayas are known for a great diversity of Babblers that inhabit niches in the complex forest understory

Black-eared Shrike Babbler, among the numerous, colourful, smaller birds that typically occur in the famed mixed bird waves of the region

Himalayan Cutia an inhabitant of the mid-elevation, broad-leaved forest

Strikingly, but not unexpectedly (given the local propensity to hunt), barring few and far between sightings of Hoolock Gibbon, Himalayan Marten and a handful of forest squirrels, mammal sightings were nil, in what appeared to be an extensive, albeit disturbed wilderness of the Dibang Wildlife Sanctuary.

A distant Hoolock Gibbon at Sally Lake - one of the few mammal sightings of the trip

The hill forests itself appeared superbly diverse, with many species in spring inflorescence - but threats in the form of the traditional practise of slash and burn agriculture and other ‘development’ oriented activities such as road widening can potentially whittle away the riches of these forests. The Roing Grasslands - typical Terai habitat - home for rarities like Jerdon’s and Marsh Babblers, Black-throated Parrotbill and Bengal Florican - seemed relatively pristine, but without protection, could soon disappear under expanding demand for farmland from a growing local population.

A view of the Greater Himalaya as seen from Myodia Pass, on one of those gloriously crisp, clear days

A Magnolia in bloom. The forestscape was peppered with flowering plants displaying their wares - a springtime phenomenon in these seasonal forests

Cobra Lily. The Eastern Himalayas are known to host among the greatest diversity of plants on Earth

While it rained the evening we arrived in Roing and, intermittently, the following day, we were lucky to have dry, crisp, clear days (and star filled nights) subsequently - a blessing in a region known for unpredictable weather. We were so far east, that our days started very early and given the logistics of distances, long. Food while on the road, was often simple, packed rotis-subji-rice substituted with goodies (read, largely namkeen Gujarati style!) from afar. When we had to stop to eat in the few and far between local outlets, food was usually Maggi, Dal, Chawal and some local greens (for the veggies), with an addition of pork and eggs for the non-veggies. The adventurous may want to try the local version of raw beetlenut - quite a sensation, but cant say all pleasant! In all this a special mention of Coffee House (be warned, the name somehow conveys things about the place, which is the exact opposite of what it actually is) - our accommodation up in the hills for three, err, unpleasant nights. Pretty much the only thing going for it is its lovely location close to Myodia Pass and all else goes hurtling downhill from there - the mouldy bed 'linen', broken toilet, the cold that somehow seems to sneak through the ramshackle building to get under your thermal clad skin ... ! But it is all worth it, when you exploring the among the most biodiverse regions on Earth.

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*Checklist (incomplete) of Birds sighted

Row #	Species	Count	Location	S/P	Date
1	Oriental Turtle-Dove		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
2	Barred Cuckoo-Dove		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
3	Bengal Florican	1	Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
4	Lesser Coucal	1	Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
5	Banded Bay Cuckoo		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
6	Large Hawk-Cuckoo		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
7	Himalayan Swiftlet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
8	White-breasted Waterhen		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
9	Common Sandpiper		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
10	Black-winged Kite		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
11	Crested Serpent-Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
12	Short-toed Snake-Eagle		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
13	Mountain Hawk-Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
14	Rufous-bellied Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
15	Black Eagle		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
16	Eurasian Sparrowhawk		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
17	Black Kite		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
18	Ward's Trogon		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
19	Common Kingfisher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
20	Great Barbet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
21	Golden-throated Barbet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
22	Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
23	Darjeeling Woodpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
24	Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
25	Short-billed Minivet		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
26	Black-eared Shrike-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
27	Ashy Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
28	Bronzed Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
29	Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
30	Hair-crested Drongo		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
31	White-throated Fantail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
32	Eurasian Jay		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
33	Yellow-billed Blue-Magpie		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
34	Bengal Bushlark		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
35	Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
36	Yellow-browed Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
37	Sultan Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
38	Yellow-cheeked Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
39	Black-throated Tit		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
40	White-tailed Nuthatch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
41	Striated Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
42	Red-whiskered Bulbul		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
43	Black Bulbul		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
44	Ashy Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
45	Mountain Bulbul		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
46	Scaly-breasted Cupwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
47	Gray-sided Bush Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
48	Yellow-bellied Warbler		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
49	Black-faced Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
50	Mountain Tailorbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
51	Ashy-throated Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
52	Gray-cheeked Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
53	Chestnut-crowned Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
54	Gray-hooded Warbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
55	Striated Grassbird		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
56	Hill Prinia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
57	Yellow-bellied Prinia		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
58	Fire-tailed Myzornis		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
59	Golden-breasted Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
60	Jerdon's Babbler	1	Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
61	Streak-throated Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
62	Rufous-headed Parrotbill		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
63	Black-breasted Parrotbill		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
64	Black-throated Parrotbill		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
65	Striated Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
66	White-naped Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
67	Stripe-throated Yuhina		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
68	Oriental White-eye		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
69	Chestnut-capped Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
70	Pin-striped Tit-Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
71	Golden Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
72	Rufous-capped Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
73	Rusty-throated Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
74	Bar-winged Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
75	Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
76	Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
77	Gray-throated Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
78	Yellow-throated Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
79	Marsh Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
80	Long-billed Wren-Babbler		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
81	Ludlow's Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
82	Nepal Fulvetta		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
83	Himalayan Cutia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
84	Striated Babbler		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
85	Spot-breasted Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
86	Rufous-necked Laughingthrush		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
87	Gray-sided Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
88	Black-faced Laughingthrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
89	Beautiful Sibia		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
90	Long-tailed Sibia		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
91	Silver-eared Mesia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
92	Red-tailed Minla		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
93	Rufous-backed Sibia		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
94	Red-faced Liocichla		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
95	Streak-throated Barwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
96	Rusty-fronted Barwing		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
97	Blue-winged Minla		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
98	Blue-throated Flycatcher		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
99	Large Niltava		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
100	Small Niltava		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
101	Bluethroat		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
102	Blue Whistling-Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
103	Black-backed Forktail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
104	Slaty-backed Forktail		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
105	Himalayan Bluetail		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
106	White-browed Bush-Robin		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
107	Slaty-blue Flycatcher		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
108	Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
109	Little Pied Flycatcher		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
110	Hodgson's Redstart		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
111	Daurian Redstart		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
112	Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
113	Chestnut Thrush		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
114	Common Myna		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
115	Jungle Myna		Roing	IN-AR	23 Mar 2018
116	Great Myna		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
117	Orange-bellied Leafbird		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
118	Fire-breasted Flowerpecker		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
119	Fire-tailed Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
120	Black-throated Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
121	Green-tailed Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
122	Crimson Sunbird		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
123	Streaked Spiderhunter		Sally Lake	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
124	Olive-backed Pipit		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
125	Scarlet Finch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	19 Mar 2018
126	Dark-rumped Rosefinch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
127	Gold-naped Finch	2	Mehao WLS	IN-AR	21 Mar 2018
128	Dark-breasted Rosefinch		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	20 Mar 2018
129	Little Bunting		Mehao WLS	IN-AR	22 Mar 2018
130	House Sparrow		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018
131	Eurasian Tree Sparrow		Roing	IN-AR	18 Mar 2018

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Report: Wildlife of Lonar and Nagzira-Navegaon Tiger Reserve, November 2018

Author: Ravi Kailas (ficustours@gmail.com)

A mating pair of Tiger in Nagzira - good signs in a crucial, albeit somewhat troubled NNTR landscape

This report is based on a natural history oriented tour to the meteor impact created Lonar Lake and the Nagzira/Navegaon/Koka wildlife landscape - both lesser visited locations in the vast, central Indian state of Maharashtra. Follow links for map of tour locations and complete picture gallery

Dates: 11th to 17th November 2018

Highlights at Nagzira-Navegaon-Koka (NNTR) included a very private sighting of a (mating) pair of tigers, Indian Rock Python, Malabar Tree Shrew, Mottled Wood Owl, Indian Scops Owl, a Crested Hawk Eagle feeding on a Sambar carcass, good forest birdlife, and beautiful, relatively quiet (fewer tourists) mixed deciduous forests - with large parts seemingly, atypically, previously unexploited for timber. The overnight visit to Lonar, was somehow underwhelming, despite its unique geological history - but there were still interesting sights to be enjoyed such as the scenic birds eye view of the lake from the rim, waders around the alkaline edges of the lake, evidence of Leopard presence and various temples, both in ruins and otherwise, with mythological links to the landscape. It is always a pleasure visiting locations where tourist footfalls are minimal and both these locations were charmingly bereft (at least on weekdays) of large numbers of visitors, making for a more 'organic' travel experience.

Detailed Report

While the original plan was to somewhat elegantly combine a visit to Lonar with an exploration of the reputedly scenic Melghat Tiger Reserve (in the Satpura range west of Nagpur), due to lack of information/availability of accommodation at the latter location, I decided to visit the more distant NNTR landscape instead. Details below, as things panned out eventually: 

11th November, Lonar: 

We left Aurangabad early on a cool, wintery morning - first stop (post road side breakfast of Upma and Matki)  a brief visit to Ellora Caves - a UNESCO World Heritage Site of monastic-temple cave complex, dating back to the 600 CE (more information here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ellora_Caves). The caves are located among sparsely wooded Basalt hills of the Deccan Traps which can be incidentally interesting for wildlife (I saw several Five-striped Palm Squirrel, Common Langur, Blue Rock Thrush, Dusky Crag Martin, Common Woodshrike, Ruddy Shelduck among commoner birds, with very little effort). 

After the brief visit to Ellora, we were back on the (varied quality) road for a 3 hour drive East, through a scarred, agriculture dominated landscape. En-route we stopped for a lip-smacking, local style vegetarian lunch at the Rajput Highway Restaurant. 

We reached Lonar* late afternoon and after a brief rest at the MTDC resort on the edge of the crater lake, I walked down 150 vertical metres on stony, steep path to the lake at the bottom, with a guide in tow, on a warm afternoon. The crater walls were covered with rocky scrub, with a ring of deciduous woodland where the land flattens out towards the barren shores of the lake. While not especially productive, there was some bird activity, including Green Beeeater, Eurasian Collared, Laughing and Spotted Doves, Phylloscopus and Sylvia warblers, Indian Silverbill, Common Iora in the forest and Black-winged Slilt and Wood Sandpiper in the lake. Although the modest woodland around the lake is known to host Striped Hyena, Wild Boar and even Leopard, we did not see any mammals apart from a large roost of Indian Flying Fox, Northern Plains Langur and Five-striped Palm Squirrel The flat land surrounding the lake was peppered with temples at various stages of ruin. 

A birds-eye view of the bowl-shaped Lonar from the crater rim

*please follow the link of an excellent blog post on the geology and mythology of Lonar

A late evening exploration of the MTDC campus’s woodland and walk along the road, adjacent to the crater rim was not especially productive, barring for Spotted Owlet. Dinner was a muted affair and rather disappointing in quality - typical north Indian fare with a local touch, but obviously only catering to the chore of getting a meal under the belt! The night was reasonably restful in a comfortable, albeit in need of better maintenance, air-conditioned double room, at MTDC Lonar.  

12th November, Lonar-Amaravati-Nagpur:

Was woken up by eerie cackles on a cool, misty morning, imagining, in a half awake state that there might be Striped Hyena around. Peering out of the windows and a quick look around, however, did not reveal the source. Later the guide clarified that the ghastly sound was from a laughing club that meets in the vicinity - I though, rather out of place in this quaint little town of Lonar! At the 630 AM, sans morning wake-me-ups (the kitchen at the resort does not cater to early risers), we set out to the lake, retracing the path from the last evening. En-route, Spotted Owlet, juvenile Indian Hawk Cuckoo, Red-throated Flycatcher, Black Redstart, Laughing Dove, Sylvia sp., Laughing Dove, Iora, Oriental While-eye, Purple Sunbird, Bay-backed Shrike, Shikra and a birds-eye view of the lake from close to the crater rim. Along the shores  - the water so still, it was glasslike -  there were numerous Black-winged Stilt and Wood Sandpiper, among Northern Shoveler, Common and Green Sandpipers, Yellow and White Wagtails and Little and Common Ringed Plovers - an early winter representation of a more robust birdlife that the lake attracts during the season. The lake itself is known to be both saline and alkaline (as the guide demonstrated with a pH indicator). On the way back, close to the woodland, there was Leopard scat and pug marks, Northern Plains Langur, Jungle Babbler and Rose-ringed Parakeet. 

Black-winged stilt reflected against the glass-like stillness of the lake 

Lonar landscape - perspective from the shores

Leopard pugmark close to the lake shore

Later that morning, post breakfast of rather insipid Poha and Omelette at the MTDC Resort, we visited a couple of temples tied to the mythology of the location. This included a Hanuman temple close to the Amber lake, formed on hollow created by a splinter of the meteor that formed Lonar. It was a pre-lunch departure for a relaxed 5 hr drive to the Amaravati Railway Station to board a train to Nagpur. For naturalists travelling in this region, Amaravati is the closest big town to the Melghat Tiger Reserve, but could not visit this time due to some logistical issues.

13th November, Old Nagzira: 

Old Nagzira's attractive mixed deciduous forest

A relaxed start to the morning towards Nagzira Nature Camp - my base to explore the NNTR landscape over the next 4 days. It took a drive of approximately 2.5 hours East of Nagpur, through largely agricultural landscape to reach the edge of the forest and about 15 mins from there to the accommodation. A brief rest and it was time for the first Safari, when the gates open at 2.40 PM. The entrance was somewhat crowded that afternoon (being a holiday associated with Diwali), but still not comparable to the popular tiger parks of Central India. The safari route towards Nagzira’s Centre Point is through strikingly tall trees and lush undergrowth (somewhat uncharacteristic for this region) in a mixed deciduous forest. It was a quiet evening for fauna, but perfect to hang back and appreciate this beautiful forest of Arjun, Mahua, Tendu, Terminalia sp., Ghera, Teak and patches of Bamboo in rocky areas, its sounds and other signs of its denizens (not so easy to appreciate when teeming crowds of tourists want you to get out the way in a frenzy to see Tigers as in more popular parks). The modest number of mammal sightings were mostly in the grasslands around the Central Point, and included just three larger species (Northern Plains Langur, Chital and Sambar Deers). Birdlife* included Indian Grey Hornbill, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Greater Racked-tailed Drongo and Jungle Owlet among commoner species of peninsular India. 

A chance sighting of the uncommon Indian Rock Python just after exiting the park late in the evening

*please see end of report for checklist

14th November, Old Nagzira/Koka: 

Crested Hawk Eagle scavenging on Sambar carcass

An early start, on a cold morning, to arrive at the gate by 550 AM (opens 6 AM). The safari route was identical to the previous evening, bar an exploration of the so called “Tiger Trail” originating at the Centre Point. The highlight sighting of the morning was of a pair of, not so commonly seen, Southern Tree Shrew, busily feeding among trees - difficult subjects to photograph given how restless they were. Sightings also included Gaur (this landscape if known for large numbers), Sambar Deer, NP Langur, several pug marks of Leopard, of a Male Tiger and solitary Sloth Bear, on the safari roads around Centre Point. Birdlife was typical of peninsular forests and included a Changeable Hawk Eagle feeding on a Sambar Carcass, a Grey-headed Fish Eagle in a regular spot near the Centre Point and some winter visiting passerines.  When the sun was higher, on the return back, there were several butterflies (ID?), mud-puddling along the road. 

Tiger pugmarks close Centre Point, Old Nagzira

The NNTR landscape is known to host a robust Gaur population

An early start to the evening safari to reach the gate to enter Koka WLS (a connected forest to NNTR). The drive through varied terrain took 1.5 hrs from the Nagzira Jungle Camp. The forest here was clearly more disturbed/sparser than at Nagzira, with seemingly younger monocultures of  Teak, Garadi and Palash, interspersed with a couple of large water bodies surrounded by grassland. While, reputedly a good zone for Sloth Bear, mammal sightings were poor here, with just a few langur, a solitary Chital and 2 Nilgai (we did see Leopard and Wild Dog spoor though). Birdlife was interesting with sightings of White-eyed Buzzard, Mottled Wood and Indian Scops Owl, White-browed Fantail,  Black-naped Monarch and Red-breased Flycatcher among commoner species. 

A pair of roosting Mottled Wood Owl in a young forest at Koka WLS

15th November, Navegaon: 

The Navegaon Reservoir borders the forest and is home to a healthy variety of waterfowl in winter

A very early (4 AM!), cold start, to spend the day at the distant Navegaon* - a good 2 hr drive southeast from NJC. First impressions on entering the forest - lovely, hilly, mixed forest, with patches of bamboo, some what reminiscent of the uplands in Kanha. A large reservoir forms one of the boundaries of the park, with numerous migratory waterfowl and swamp associated birdlife, such as Cotton Pygmy Goose, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Asian Openbill, Black-headed Ibis and Lesser Whistling Teal among miscellaneous, too distant to identify, ducks. Mammal sightings were modest - with just Gaur, Langur and Rhesus Macaque - as has been the pattern in this entire landscape - and murmurs from the local guides suggest that much of this has to do with rampant hunting and disturbance from nearby villages in this human-dominated landscape. 

Gaur were among the modest number of mammals seen in Navegaon

A 3 hour or so mid-day break to wait out the heat of the day and get some lunch in the process was productive for some delicious steamed-water chestnuts (locally singada) and the sour, fleshy ‘amraas’ fruit, by the lake side. Lunch, hoping for local fare, was at a highway Dhaba a few KM from the lake (we passed up on a joint selling Jowar Roti by the lake side and a few homely looking diners enroute, for this). For someone not too fussy about restaurant appearances, this one definitely jolted awake my sensibilities associated with fine dining. Here it was difficult to tell where the dining began and the kitchen ended, not to mention the pantry and washing areas, with the floor littered with stuff that could happily be at home in all of the above. Plodded on all the same, since the driver and guide swore by the anda curry, and ordered rotis and aloo gobi. Was served a dish with cauliflower florets floating in oil (suspect they misheard the order as oily gobi) - vegetarian (the anda curry was apparently quite good, possibly even better, if you can tune out the neighbourhood) food clearly not the forte of this joint.

Back to peace at Navegaon WLS, post lunch, for a safari until darkness - this time via the Koli Gate. Apart from seemingly healthy mixed forests, this route also followed promising grasslands (former villages), which looked like great habitat for herbivores if managed with that objective. However still only modest luck with sightings, but at least 3 herds of Gaur this time. As has been typical to Nagzira and here, the forests where filled with Giant Wood Spider - their webs (reputedly strong enough to capture small birds) spread between virtually, every available tree. 

Nilgai in a grassland which was once part of a village

*for those wishing to combine a visit here with Nagzira (like I did), I suggest that you find an accommodation closer to Navegaon (MTDC has a resort for example), due to the distances invoved

16th November, Old/New Nagzira:

A foggy start to the morning - ours being the only vehicle at the Chorkamara gate (entrance to Old Nagzira) at opening time. There were undisturbed pug marks/spoor on the road this morning (Sloth Bear, Leopard, Jungle Cat), possibly from overnight or earlier, given the previous day was a weekly ‘no safari day’ in this zone. After a quiet ride, charmed by the early morning forest, blissfully sans other tourists, a Brown Fish Owl showed up around one of the overflow streams from the reservoir at Centre Point. Prompted by the driver, turning to the other side, just about 50 feet away, an adult tigress lying on the grass! The animal, stayed put in the open but was was obviously wary of our presence. Strange grunts emanated from the undergrowth, followed by the male - quite agitated apparently on having their privacy disturbed. A mating pair, wary (the male especially nervous) largely remaining in the vicinity, until more vehicles piled up noisily, chasing the pair away deep into the undergrowth, to culminate among the most personally satisfying tiger observations thus far. Further on, the safari continued off the beaten track onto a hilly, very scenic route (Satmudi towards Murpar Gate) from Circle Road. The aside complete, there was not much much luck barring commoner birds and mammals seen on earlier outings. 

The female as seen initially, resting in an open, grassy patch in close proximity to the road

The male, appeared later from the undergrowth, and evidently uncomfortable with our presence

Grey-headed Fish Eagle in a favourite perch near Centre Point

That evening, in a quest to explore new parts of the park (and to avoid any potential crowds following the news of the morning's tiger sightings), we visited the New Nagzira Range. The route took us through Gaipuri Water Springs towards the highpoint at Chandi Dibba, via exciting hill forests. The forests here were subtly different as well, with a lot more undergrowth, Teak domination (in the flats) and bamboo. Both mammal and bird sightings were subdued - despite the anticipation provided by the intimate forest and several instances of leopard spoor. Visitors to Old Nagzira - many of the here due to the buzz created by the AM tiger sighting - the same evening, were treated to views of the mating Tigers, a Leopard and Dhole hunting Sambar around the lake at Centre Point! 

17th November, Old Nagzira:

The final safari largely exploring formerly trodden routes of Old Nagzira. There were fresh Tiger pug marks, a glimpse of the tiger pair in the vicinity of the previous sighting, several herds of Sambar, Nilgai, Indian Scops Owl, Orange-headed Thrush, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon and Greenish Warbler (among other regular denizens) to see us off. An about average safari to culminate an interesting visit to a jungle landscape that holds many treasures, a crucial link in the tiger corridor connecting Kahna/Pench to the north and Tadoba to the south but in desperate need for better protection to reach its potential. 

Asian Paradise Flycatcher

Sloth Bear Spoor in one of the game roads in the vicinity of the Centre Point

Indian Scops Owl in a daytime roost

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List of Birds Recorded

Ellora

Blue Rock Thrush

Dusky Crag Martin 

Ruddy Shelduck 

Common Woodshrike 

Lonar 

Green Beeeater 

Eurasian Collared Dove

Spotted Dove 

Laughing Dove

Common Pigeon 

Phylloscopus sp. 

Sylvia warbler sp 

Indian Silverbill 

Common Iora 

Black-winged Slilt 

Wood Sandpiper

Common Sandpiper

Green Sandpiper

Spotted Owlet

Taiga Flycatcher

Common Hawk Cuckoo

Black Redstart

Jungle Prinia

Oriental White-eye

Purple Sunbird

Common Peafowl

Bay-backed Shrike

Shikra

Northern Shoveler

Indian Spot-billed Duck

Indian Pond Heron

Little Egret

Cattle Egret

Oriental Darter

Indian Cormorant

Red-rumped Swallow

Great Tit

Indian Roller

Large Grey Babbler

Yellow Wagtail

White Wagtail

Common Ringed Plover

Little Ringed Plover

Nagzira-Navegaon-Koka

Jungle Babbler

Red-vented Bulbul

Scaly-breasted Munia

White-rumped Munia’

House Sparrow

Common Pigeon

Spotted Dove

Oriental Whiteeye

Small Minivet

Asian Paradise Flycatcher

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher

Black-naped Monarch

White-browed Fantail

Rufous Treepie

White-bellied Drongo

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo

Ashy Drongo

Plum-head Parakeet

Rose-ringed Parakeet

Alexandrine Parakeet

Lesser Goldenback Woodpecker

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker

Orange-headed Thrush

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon

Red-wattled Lapwing

Common Peafowl

Oriental Magpie Robin

Indian Grey Hornbill

Green Beeeater

Eurasian Hoopoe

Jungle Owlet

Mottled Wood Owl

Spotted Owlet

Indian Scops Owl

Brown Fish Owl

Crested Hawk Eagle

Grey-headed Fish Eagle

White-eyed Buzzard

Green Sandpiper

Sulphur-bellied Warbler

Greenish Warbler

Syke’s Warbler

Grey-breasted Prinia

Black Hooded Oriole

Indian Golden Oriole

Grey Junglefowl

Cattle Egret

Great Egret

Indian Pond Heron

Grey Heron

Indian Cormorant

Great Cormorant

Little Grebe

Bronze Winged Jacana

Pheasant-tailed Jacana

Asian Openbill

Black-headed Ibis

Lesser Whistling Duck

Cottom Pygmy Goose

Brown-headed Barbet

Golden-fronted Leafbird

Wire-tailed Swallow

White-throated Kingfisher

Pied Kingfisher

Oriental Darter

Purple-rumped Sunbird

Greater Coucal
Common Myna
Jungle Myna

Nomenclature as per Grimmet, R., Inskipp, P. & Inskipp, T., 2011, Birds of the Indian Subcontinent. Helm Field Guides. ISBN: 019565155-3

Report: Mammals of the Anamalais (South India), Jan-Feb 2019

Author: Ravi Kailas (ficustours@gmail.com)

Brown Palm Civet (Paradoxurus jerdoni) in the Valparai landscape. A regional endemic and one of the highlights of the trip.

This report is based on a guided mammal watching oriented trip to the Anamalai mountains in the Western Ghats of south India

Dates: 31st Jan to 3rd Feb 2019

Tour Locations: In and around the Anamalai Tiger Reserve, including Sethumadai, Top Slip and Valparai. Map of tour locations

Tour Participants: Stuart Chapman and Nick Cox, both senior conservationists working for the Worldwide Fund for Nature

Naturalist: Ravi Kailas (of Ficus Wildlife and Natural History Tours)

Driver: Babu*

*Highly recommend Babu (mobile - 9994588446) for his well maintained Toyota Innova, safe driving, etiquette around wildlife sightings (bare minimum honking!), flexibility for the inevitable early starts and late nights and spotting skills, for your wildlife vacation in this region. 

Highlight sightings

The visitors, keen mammal listers, had a pre-trip target of a minimum of 5 new mammals to their life lists, on their first visit to southern India. Happily both their lists were enhanced by 10 plus new additions with ease, among the 23 mammals* we saw on this trip. A good proportion of these were Western Ghats or regional specialities including Lion-tailed and Bonnet Macaques, Brown Palm Civet, Nilgiri and South-eastern Langurs, Nilgiri Tahr, Dusky and Jungle Striped Squirrels, Stripe-necked Mongoose, a distinct race of the Indian Giant Squirrel, among more widely distributed animals such as Asiatic Elephant, Indian Giant Flying Squirrel and Ruddy Mongoose. 

This list can realistically rise to 30 plus species (with the potential inclusion of Tiger, Leopard, Dhole, South-western Langur, Smooth-coated Otter, Slender Loris and Grizzled Giant Squirrel among others) by visiting the foothills forests of the Nilgiris at Kabini and Bandipur north of the Palghat Gap, and the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary to the south of the tour locations.

Detailed Report

Day 1, Sethumadai/Top Slip: Our trip began around noon at the Coimbatore Airport, our first stop Sethumadai, an agricultural landscape bordering the Anamalai Tiger Reserve. After a brief rest and lunch, it was time to head to the forest check-post, before the late afternoon closing time, to enter the Anamalai Tiger Reserve towards Top Slip. The road to Top Slip climbs through 10 KM of varied forests, where we enjoyed our first mammal sightings of the trip, including of Three-striped Palm Squirrel, Indian Giant Squirrel (a ubiquitous forest squirrel in the southern Western Ghats), South-eastern Langur, Bonnet Macaque and interbred troops of Nilgiri and South-eastern Langur. At Top Slip and beyond, towards the Kerala border, via an enticing patch of evergreen forest, we saw the endemic, highly arboreal Nilgiri Langur, Barking Deer, Spotted Deer and Wild Boar. A few moments of excitement were provided by simultaneous alarm calls of Nilgiri Langur, Barking Deer and Sambar - all confusingly from different directions, but in hill forests such as these, the chances of tracking carnivores with calls are typically poor. It was getting towards dusk by the time we started our way back down to the plains, with a possibility of Sloth Bear or Leopard activity in the magic pre-darkness hour. However, it turned out to be a quiet drive barring an unlikely sighting (thanks to Stuart’s sharp eyes) of the diminutive, endemic Dusky Striped Squirrel (normally found at higher elevations) and Sambar Deer.

Bonnet Macaque (Macaca radiata)

A distinct race of Indian Giant Squirrel (Ratufa indica maxima), restricted to the southern Western Ghats

Later that evening, a post dinner, abridged exploration of the coconut grove/forest edge habitat was productive only for Black-naped Hare and Gaur, but with a bit more effort (a restful night beckoned early though), we could have sighted nocturnal regulars of this landscape such as Slender Loris, Common Palm Civet, Small Indian Civet and Indian Porcupine (especially in forest edge around the Serenity Guest House, where I stayed).

Day 2, Top Slip/Valparai: Not an especially early start this morning (by crepuscular mammal standards) to arrive at the forest check-post by 700 AM (official opening time)/entrance to Top Slip (retracing the road from the previous evening). Unfortunately, we were delayed by a rather lackadaisical forest guard posted for duty at the gate, who turned up only at 730 AM. The drive up was uneventful, with repeat sightings of commoner mammals, but the birdlife was typically excellent with the open, dry season, light filled canopy aiding sightings of Great Pied and Malabar Grey Hornbills, Red Spurfowl, Crested Serpent Eagle and Oriental Honey Buzzard among others with little effort.

The Anamalai Tiger Reserve is one among few in India, where walking is permitted. While there are a handful of trails of varying durations, we chose a short walk towards Mt Stuart Rest-house from Top Slip, via parts of the evergreen, bamboo and Teak forest, primarily in hope of locating a potential bat roost near our destination. While the abandoned building near rest-house was sans bats, there was evidence from fresh droppings that they likely used them at night as a temporary feeding spot. Incidentally, it was also very evident from the floor covered with their droppings, that the cool interiors of the dilapidated structure was a regular haunt for Sloth Bear. The walk itself was productive sightings of Nilgiri Langur, several Indian Giant Squirrel and Spotted Deer, in excellent morning light, and typically robust morning bird activity. 

Nilgiri Langur (Semnopithecus Johnii)  are endemic to the hills of south India

Post lunch, it was time to climb the somewhat busy mountain road towards Valparai through a forest-plantation matrix. The initial part of the climb, on the slope facing the plains, is almost always productive for the endemic Nilgiri Tahr, but it seemed this was one of those rare occasions where we would miss seeing them during the climb. However Nick saved the afternoon by brilliantly spotting an individual, its classic shape silhouetted against a bright sky as it perched precariously on a distant rocky slope - very satisfactory as Tahr sightings go! Further down the road, in progressively wetter forest, it was Lion-tailed Macaque territory. We saw a troop in the first potential forest patch, feeding on the tubular flowers of the Cullenia exallirata (a favourite food for Lion-tailed Macaque and a keystone tree in these forest). The rest of the drive was peppered with sightings of the locally abundant, endemic Jungle Striped Squirrel and a solitary Bull Gaur, non-nonchalantly grazing in the middle of a tea plantation, before we reached Stanmore Garden Bungalow around sunset.

Nilgiri Tahr (Nilgiritragus hylocrius), classically silhouetted against the sky, while traversing this steep hill slope

The endemic Lion-tailed Macaque (Macaca silenus) has been a flagship species for rainforest conservation in the Western Ghats

After a brief rest it was time to look for creatures of the dark and we spent the evening searching in the woodland surrounding the Monica Garden Bungalow - a known spot for some local specialities. A casual wave of the flashlight in a tall tree latched on to the bright eye-shine of an Indian Giant Flying Squirrel, one of the target species - a good start to the evening. Things got better (as much as they realistically could actually), when Stuart, with his thermal sensing equipment, picked up shapes akin to civets. The first one turned out to be the widely distributed Small Indian Civet, but another pair of shapes turned to be the much rarer Brown Palm Civet - an endemic, uncommonly seen through its range. There were murmurs from the bungalow staff that an Indian Pangolin (which would have been the icing, the cake and the ice cream all in one) had been seen a few times around the property, but we seemed to have exhausted all our luck on a productive evening otherwise.

Brown Palm Civet as seen in a woodland patch within the Valparai landscape

Day 3, Valparai: Waking up to the pleasing, pervasive call of the Malabar Whistling Thrush, it was time for, potentially, three species of mongoose - regular visitors around guesthouses attracted to scraps of goodies from the kitchen. Having checked some potential sites, without luck, we moved on to our planned walk in the Puthuthottam Estate  -  a stronghold of Lion-tailed Macaque (LTM), where 100 plus individuals of these range restricted animals are easily seen. Almost as soon as we entered the estate, we were greeted with a sighting of LTM’s, moving through the plantation. Further on, where we began our walk, a few more individuals, non-nonchalantly going about their business, in the warmth of the morning sunshine. The walk was also productive for the endemic Stripe-necked Mongoose, foraging where tea plantation meets forest, Barking Deer, Indian Giant and Jungle Striped Squirrels, a pair of Crested Goshawks and Malabar Grey Hornbill.

Jungle Striped Squirrel (Funambulus tristriatus) a forest squirrel endemic to the Western Ghats

After resting out the typically unproductive mid-day hours, we set out (with sightings of LTM and Nilgiri Langur en-route) towards the Anamalai Club, located at the base of a shrubby hill slope, where the staff had suggested that two species of Mongoose (hoping that one them would be the rare Brown Mongoose) were regular visitors in the evening. Sure enough, watching a regular feeding spot from a distance, we saw a grey, furry shape in a depression, soon chased away by Stripe-necked Mongoose. The flash of grey that disappeared into the thickets, giving way to the larger species, appeared to be a Ruddy Mongoose, but none of us had a good enough look to confirm. After watching the remaining mongoose, and it us, warily, for a few minutes we moved back to the Monica Bungalow at dusk - the scene of action the previous night, with the tantalising possibility of Indian Pangolin. While we did have good sightings of Stripe-necked Mongoose, Brown Palm Civet and a pair of Indian Flying Squirrel, the Pangolin did not show.

Striped-necked Mongoose (Herpestes vitticollis) is a large forest mongoose endemic to the hills of south India

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel (Petaurista philippensis philippensis) as seen in a woodland patch within the Valparai landscape

Day 4, Valparai/Coimbatore: Our final day plans to visit the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, a regular spot for the patchily distributed regional endemic Grizzled Giant Squirrel, was dropped since one of the visitors fell sick. As such we spent a large part of the morning looking for wildlife in the shrubby thickets around the Anamalai Club and were duly entertained by a pair of Ruddy Mongoose until mid-day. Incidental bird sightings in the bracken scrub included Crested Serpent Eagle, Malabar Whistling Thrush Rufous Babbler, White-cheeked Barbet and Blyth's Reed Warbler among commoner birds. Later a climb up a nearby hillock - with evidence of porcupine and elephant on the way - provided a birds-eye perspective of the plantation forest matrix of the Valparai landscape. Late in the afternoon, we started our drive back down, to the Coimbatore airport with sightings of a solitary Nilgiri Tahr by the roadside, South-eastern Langur, Bonnet Macaque and a charming herd of Asiatic Elephant, out for a drink in the cool of the evening, near the Aliyar Reservoir. We reached the airport in the evening, culminating a whirlwind trip that was productive for a bulk of the mammalian specialities of the region, but without luck for larger carnivores and a couple of rarer endemics.  

Ruddy Mongoose (Herpestes smithii)

List of Mammal Sightings

Three-striped Palm Squirrel (Funambulus palmarum)

Jungle Striped Squirrel (Funambulus tristriatus)

Dusky Striped Squirrel (Funambulus sublineatus)

Indian Giant Squirrel (Ratufa indica maxima)

Indian Giant Flying Squirrel (Petaurista philippensis philippensis)

South-eastern Langur (Semnopithecus priam)

Nilgiri Langur (Semnopithecus Johnii)

Lion-tailed Macaque (Macaca silenus)

Bonnet Macaque (Macaca radiata)

Chital (Axis axis)

Sambar (Rusa unicolor)

Munjtac (Muntiacus muntjak)

Indian Wild Pig (Sus scrofa)

Gaur (Bos gaurus)

Indian Hare (Lepus nigricollis nigricollis)

Black Rat (Rattus rattus)

Indian Field Mouse (Mus booduga)

Nilgiri Tahr (Nilgiritragus hylocrius)

Stripe-necked Mongoose (Herpestes vitticollis)

Ruddy Mongoose (Herpestes smithii)

Brown Palm Civet (Paradoxurus jerdoni)

Small Indian Civet (Viverricula indica indica)

Asian Elephant (Elephas maximus)

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